Do it Yourself Fixes

I have already explained how to check the liquid level in the battery, the oil level in the engine, the liquid level in the radiator, and the air pressure in the tires in the chapter on Four Regular Checks. Here are some other easy tasks you can do with a minimum of tools, mechanical ability, and expertise:

1. Servicing the air cleaner

2. Removing battery corrosion

3. Using jumper cables

4. Checking the brake fluid level

5. Putting on the spare tire

6. Checking the power steering fluid level

7. Checking the automatic transmission fluid

8. Filling the windshield washer reservoir

9. Replacing windshield wiper blades

10. Replacing fuses

11. Replacing the turn signal flasher

12. Replacing the four-way hazard flasher

13. Replacing light bulbs

SERVICING THE AIR CLEANER

On most cars the air cleaner is inside a round can, usually located above the carburetor. The round lid is usually held on with a wing nut(s) that must be removed. Lift the lid off and remove the round paper filter element to examine it. Replace the element when it is dark on the outside and the inside.

Refer to your Owner’s Manual to learn approximately how many miles you can drive before the element needs changing. Your manual gives a good rule of thumb, but remember that the more dirt roads you drive on, the sooner the element will get dirty. 

A car driven only on pavement can go about 20,000 miles before it needs a new air cleaner element, but a car driven on dirt roads should be inspected about every 1,000 miles. The first time you service the air cleaner yourself, ask your regular mechanic’s opinion if you have any doubts about whether the filter element is dirty enough to need changing.

Buy a new air cleaner element from an auto parts store by specifying the year and make of your car, or take the old element with you. Be-fore installing it, clean the container with a rag dipped in kerosene or lightweight oil, such as 3-in-One oil or sewing machine oil. Either side can be installed face up unless the element indicates a top side, so you cannot put it in wrong. 

Replace the lid and tighten the wing nut securely to avoid a rattle. Some cars, such as the Chevrolet Vega, have ah air cleaner unit that cannot be taken apart, and you have to purchase the entire metal can unit containing the filter. Several nuts must be removed to make this change. Use a small, adjustable crescent wrench or a socket wrench to perform this task.

REMOVING BATTERY CORROSION

Each battery has two terminals, a positive and a negative. These terminals are located on the top of the battery or on the side near the top. The battery cables are attached to the terminals and carry the required voltage to the electrical system. Corrosion happens naturally, and is not an indication of a problem, but it can prevent the car from starting when you least expect it. So keep it off your battery terminals and metal battery clamps by removing it periodically.

Do not park your car on a paved driveway when you remove corrosion, as you may stain it. This is the procedure:

Make sure that all the vent caps are covering the cells (soda water getting into the cell may cause an explosion or a violent reaction and splash you with acid). Mix a concentrated solution of ordinary baking soda and faucet water (approximately five tablespoons of soda to one-half cup of water), and pour this solution on the corrosion, using an old toothbrush or wire brush to scrub away the corrosion. 

If the battery is in the engine compartment, you can use a water hose or a sprinkling can to rinse off all the corrosion and remaining soda, leaving the metal parts clean. Dry off the terminals with a paper towel or cloth. A film of petroleum jelly or wheel bearing grease applied to the outside of the terminals and the metal battery clamps will help prevent the accumulation of corrosion.

If your battery has been neglected for one or two years and the terminals are thoroughly covered with corrosion, it is best to remove the clamps with a wrench or pliers and clean them and the battery terminals with baking soda. Then use sandpaper or a special battery terminal cleaning tool to scour the metal inside the clamps and around the terminals. Replace the clamps, tighten, and apply grease.

QUESTION: Can Coca-Cola be used instead of baking soda to remove corrosion from batteries? No, Coca-Cola is not strong enough.

USING JUMPER CABLES

Jumper cables are colored red and black to help you place them cor-rectly. Use a helper battery of the same voltage as the dead battery. For example, if the dead battery is twelve volts (one with six vent caps), the helper car must have a twelve-volt battery. You will normally have another person to help you when you are using a helper battery from another vehicle.

Identify the positive and negative terminals on the dead battery and on the helper battery. The positive terminals will be labeled with the letters POS or p, or a plus sign ( + ), and the negative terminals can be identified by the letters NEG or N, or a minus sign (-).

Caution! Do not attempt to use the jumper cables if you cannot identify the positive and negative terminals of both batteries. Get a professional mechanic to help you.

Follow this procedure when jump-starting. For simplicity, I will refer to the helper car as A and the dead battery car as B:

a. Position the two vehicles so they are not touching.

b. Remove the vent caps from both batteries and cover the vents with cloth.

c. Turn off the engine in helper car A, so no damage can occur to its electrical system if the cables are not connected properly. (If car A does not have enough power to start car B, get another helper battery-or crank car A using its own battery and take your chances on an improper connection. )

d. In car B, set the parking brake and place automatic transmission in “park” (or put manual transmission in “neutral”).