Buying an Used Car

Most people who buy used cars do so because they cannot afford a new car of the type they want. Some people buy used cars for eco­nomical transportation, especially when the car is to be used only locally. 

The most expensive item a new-car owner dices is depreciation, which is greatest during the first year or two of a car’s life. The new-car owner’s loss can be your gain. You may decide that a used car is the best investment for your transportation needs if:

1. You do not travel extensively.

2. The car is a second car for the family.
3. The car will be transportation for a teenager.
4. You wish to spend only a limited amount of money.

Shop and compare when buying a used car. Generally you have two sources: a used-car dealer or a private owner. Read the ads in your local newspaper to locate used cars from both sources. If you have any doubts about a dealer’s reputation, call the chamber of commerce or the Better Business Bureau. Reputable dealers expect to be in business a long time, and they are usually concerned about your satisfaction.

Dealers who have well-equipped service departments usually make the necessary repairs to put used cars in reasonably good condition before selling them, and they are more likely to offer warranties and to honor them. Dealers or used-car lots without service departments tend to sell cars “as they are.” Franchised new-car dealers select the best of the cars traded in to sell on their used-car lots. The least desirable trade-ins are wholesaled to other used-car dealers.

Car salesmen earn their income from commissions on the cars they sell. Though some want to help you find the car that best fits your needs, most have little concern for your welfare and will not hesitate to pressure you to make a sale. Do not be hasty in buying an expensive item like a car. Be wary of “fantastic bargains” or warnings that another buyer has his eye on this “jewel” which is going to be snapped up unless you act at once.

Franchised dealers, banks, and other auto finance agencies keep a current “blue book” or N.A.D.A. book showing the wholesale and retail values of used cars. Once you locate a used car that you might want, find out from one of these sources the nationwide “average” wholesale and retail price of the car you have in mind, as equipped. 

This information is very helpful in haggling with a used-car salesman or in discussing a fair price with a private owner. A car with low mileage in superb condition is probably worth more than the “book value” listed in the current book, while a car with high mileage and showing wear and tear is worth less.

Make two checks before you close the deal on a used car. You, the buyer, should make the first check, and I am going to give you pointers to help you. If a car seems satisfactory and the price is right (or near enough so that you think you can get the seller to accept your lower offer), then you ought to have a mechanic check the car. He will charge you for this service, but the money is well spent because he may help you avoid buying a lemon and paying costly repair bills.

Do not buy the car if a dealer or private owner refuses to let you test-drive the car or take it to your mechanic. But do not automatically reject a car that has one or more things wrong with it. Find out the cost of putting the car in good operating condition and add this to the price; you may still be getting a good deal.

Your Check

Look over the outside of the car-the appearance can tell you a lot about how the previous owner has cared for the car and can also give you warning of trouble to come. Look for unmatching paint; the car was probably in an accident if a section has been repainted. A totally repainted car with paint on chrome moldings and rubber sealing strips may indicate that something had to be covered up.

Another tip-off to major body repair is a fresh weld which shows up in the engine compartment, or trunk, or underneath the car. If the car is in a garage, take it outside where the light is better. 

Sight along the sides of the car to look for uneven places that may mean body work, a result of previous accidents. See that the doors, hood, and trunk open and close properly and fit well. If they do not, the problem could be a bent frame or body. If you or a mechanic conclude that the car has been in a major accident, turn it down at once.

Look for paint blisters, which usually result from rust. See if there is rust underneath the car, in the fender wells, in the trunk, and around the chrome strip on the back window. A car used near salt water, or on northern roads where salt is spread in winter, may show corrosion and damage to metal parts.

Examine the tread on all the tires for uneven wear. On front tires this may indicate a need for front-end alignment, worn front-end parts, or a bent frame caused by an accident. 

Uneven wear on the rear tires has a different meaning, depending on whether the car is American- or foreign-made. 

Uneven tire wear on the rear of an American car suggests -at the least-that the tire may need balancing or-at the worst-that there may be a major problem such as a bent frame from an accident.

Tires wearing unevenly on the rear of a foreign car may indicate the rear wheels only need to be balanced, adjusted, or aligned. Of course, a bent frame may also cause this trouble. Foreign ciir.s often have the rear wheels suspended independently, whereas American cars usually have a solid axle.

Rock the car by jumping on the bumper or pushing down hard at each corner. The car probably needs new shocks if it bounces more than twice after you let go.

Next look at the inside of the car. The interior sometimes gives a good indication about the car’s use. A car with high mileage will have telltale signs, such as excessive wear on the floor mats or carpets. The driver’s seat may be badly worn and sagging. 

The steering wheel of a high-mileage car may look worn, since after many miles the perspiration from the driver’s hands can cause the finish to deteriorate. Look at the brake pedal, the clutch pedal (if the car has manual trans-mission), and the accelerator; unusual wear or a brand-new pedal indicates lots of driving.

You are ready for the road test if the car still looks promising. This might be a good time to drive the car to your mechanic and ask him to check it over. Your road test should include shifting gears, going over bumpy roads to test the shock absorbers, and steering around curves to see how much play is in the steering mechanism. The auto¬matic transmission should not slip or hesitate as you shift from gear to gear. Any unusual noises in the transmission, especially when ac¬celerating, may mean trouble.

A car with manual transmission should shift smoothly and quietly through the gears. You have problems if the clutch slips or makes an unusual noise. Try the brakes: something is wrong if the car pulls to one side, the brakes feel spongy, or you hear strange noises when you push the brake pedal.

Your Mechanic’s Check

An experienced mechanic can tell a great deal about the engine of a car just by starting it and listening to it run. He should also lake a road test in the car. His trained eye can spot evidence of n major accident, excessive mileage, and trouble indicators that you might never notice. If you and your mechanic agree that more extensive testing is called for, he can check the engine compression, the brake linings and various other components of the car tosee if they need repair¬ing or replacing.

A Final Precaution

During your check, you may notice apparently minor problems, such as a dashboard light that does not work or a turn signal that does not operate properly. Such a small repair may actually be expensive if the wiring to the dashboard or the entire turn signal mechanism has to be replaced. 

The safest procedure is to tell the used-car salesman that you will buy the car provided he will fix the item or items that malfunction and that you are willing to put up a deposit to show good faith. The seller should be glad to correct the trouble if the dash light only needs a new bulb; but if he is not, watch out!

Warranty

Ask for a warranty or guarantee in writing before you buy a used car from a dealer; the promises of a salesman are not binding. Warranties vary in content, so find out in detail exactly what is covered by the warranty and for how long, what is not covered, and who pays for labor. 

 Some warranties given on used cars are on a fifty-fifty basis: you pay one-half and the dealer pays the other half of all repair costs for a certain time or mileage. Some warranties cover parts and labor, while others cover parts only. A used-car warranty may vary in length from thirty days to six months or longer. Many warranties require you to return the car to the seller for any repair work covered by the warranty.

At some franchised dealers, you can purchase an additional warranty on new and used cars. On new cars this warranty is in addition to the manufacturer’s warranty; on used cars the warranty is in addition to the dealer’s warranty. Additional warranties usually vary from one to five years and from 12,000 to 50,000 miles, depending on the age of the car and the amount you want to pay for this additional protection.

Some newer used cars are still under the manufacturer’s warranty. Be sure to examine the details of the warranty, since some of them are not transferable. Other warranties require a fee for the transfer or limit certain coverage, and some warranties must be validated in a special way in order to be transferred. Read the entire warranty before you buy the car, and remember that a warranty is only as good as the dealer who issues it.